Oh, Thailand... We Love You So

⛳ Post Script: Golf in Chiang Mai

Before we packed our bags for Bangkok, we decided to squeeze in one last adventure in Chiang Mai — a round of golf. Our hotel arranged a tee time at Alpine Golf Resort, about an hour outside of town. The drive itself was scenic, but the course was even better: rolling fairways, lush greens, and mountains framing the horizon.

What made the day truly memorable were the caddies — engaging, funny, and quick with a smile. They kept us laughing as we worked our way through the round. We hit some good shots, we hit some great shots, and, oh yes, we hit some shots best forgotten. But that’s golf, isn’t it? A mix of triumphs and mulligans, all wrapped in sunshine and laughter.

My caddie saying "hit there." I'm saying "I'll hit over there" and the other caddie just cracking up.

All in all, it was a perfect way to cap off our time in Chiang Mai — a reminder that travel isn’t just temples and food, but also finding joy in the unexpected, like a day on the links in Thailand.

Bangkok Beginnings: Sunrise, Chinatown & a Head Cold

The View From Our Room

After an hour’s flight from Chiang Mai and another hour’s ride through Bangkok traffic, we arrived at the Grande Centre Point Sukhumvit — a five‑star hotel that feels like a palace in the sky. Our suite has wrap‑around windows framing the city, and waking up to the sunrise over Bangkok’s skyscrapers is nothing short of magical. And here’s the kicker: we’re paying less for this suite than we did for a motel in Moses Lake. Thailand, you win again.

But I have to wonder — what is it with Thailand and my health? On the flight I caught a head cold that’s pestered me for two days. You haven’t truly traveled until you’ve tried explaining symptoms to a pharmacist with Google Translate. After a few failed attempts, she looked up and said, “Would you rather we spoke in English?” Truth be told, her English was better than mine.

Despite the sniffles, we powered through our first day’s adventures. Last time we were here, we only had one day to see the major highlights like Wat Arun. This time, we wanted something more intimate, so we headed to Chinatown — one of the largest and oldest in the world, established in 1782. Think about that: while George Washington and Ben Franklin were still wandering around America, dim sum was already being served in Bangkok’s Chinatown.

The sounds, the smells, the chaos — walking down an alley barely four feet wide, with food and merchandise spilling out on both sides while a motorbike squeezes past — it’s an experience you won’t find in Tacoma. 

From Chinatown, we walked to the Chao Phraya River and boarded a boat to glide down the city’s main artery.

At the end of the day, it was a very good start to our Bangkok adventures — a mix of luxury, laughter, history, and the kind of sensory overload that makes travel unforgettable.

Bangkok Sunrises and Slow Travel

Mornings in Bangkok have been… well, I hesitate to use the word “surreal” because it’s overused, but that’s the closest description. It’s that feeling of disbelief, like you can’t quite process what you’re seeing. Every morning we’ve watched the sunrise over the city from our suite, and it feels unlike any sunrise we’ve ever experienced — with the exception of Haleakala on the Big Island of Hawaii. Just special.

One of the joys of being “travelers” rather than “tourists” is the luxury of taking things slowly. When we were younger, we traveled with a plan for every day. We’d wake up early, follow a predetermined path, and try to see as much as possible before the day was done. We don’t travel like that anymore. Slow travel gives us the freedom to pause, to take a day off when needed, and to let the journey breathe.

That freedom came in handy when my head cold caught up with me. Instead of forcing ourselves out into the city, we stayed at the hotel. I got some much‑needed recovery sleep, while Sonja put a serious dent into her Netflix account. Sometimes, the best travel memories aren’t about rushing to see everything — they’re about giving yourself permission to rest.

Breakfast, Markets and Memories

Yesterday was one of those days when we felt truly grateful to be able to travel. We left the hotel in search of breakfast and Sonja spotted a small restaurant with a Canadian flag and a sign promising all‑day breakfast. What a find! I had one of the best breakfast sandwiches I’ve ever tasted, while Sonja was transported to another place entirely with her eggs benedict. And, don't tell anyone, but we snuck in a little carrot cake to top it all off.

We met a young couple there — he from Miami, she from Thailand — along with their child. Listening to him talk about living in Bangkok versus the U.S., we understood completely. There was none of the “rush, rush, rush” that seems to infiltrate everything back home. Instead, you could feel the peace they carried as a family.

After breakfast, we hopped on the BTS Skytrain to the other side of the city. Bangkok is home to 11 million people — the size of New York City — so even on an elevated train it took 30–35 minutes. Unlike New York’s subways, the BTS is air‑conditioned, quiet, and orderly. Standing room only, yet no loud talking, no music blaring — just a comfortable ride.

We arrived at Chatuchak Weekend Market, billed as the largest outdoor market in Southeast Asia. With over 8,000 vendors, it lived up to the hype. Clothes, trinkets, carvings, street food — everything you could imagine was there. We saw so much we wanted to buy for our kids and grandkids, but U.S. rules on overseas packages make it nearly impossible. Either the gifts are rejected and sent back, or the kids would have to pay a 100% tariff. To quote Rodney King: “Can’t we all just get along?”

From the market, we wandered into Talat Noi, a neighborhood that’s a photo junkie’s heaven. Street art, cozy alleys, and locals cooking and living their lives. We ate at a restaurant that felt straight out of a Hollywood movie — an old warehouse on the river, with original décor and even a tree growing out of the dining room, reminiscent of Angkor Wat. The food was excellent, the view unforgettable, and the memory will linger.

I don't have words that will capture this area, so I'll let the pictures do the talking.

A walk, a tuk tuk ride, a subway ride, and another Skytrain later, we were back at our hotel. Looking at each other, all we could say was: “Wow.”

Although we're not leaving Bangkok yet, I'm going to close this post out here.  In a couple of days, we're going to take a side trip out of the city and I'll pick things up then.   Love you kids!  We really hope you make it to Bangkok so we'll leave some good feelings here for you!

I Think I Like Facials

The pivot to Chiang Mai turned out to be a great move. The weather has been fantastic — upper 70s to low 80s with no rain — and we chose a wonderful hotel right on the Ping River. From our balcony, the view stretches across the water, and every morning Sonja has sat outside with her coffee, watching the day break. More than once I’ve heard her sigh, “Can we just stay here?”

Our time has been wonderfully relaxing. We reconnected with friends who own a restaurant we frequented last year. Back then, we left them a small Seattle Police bear, and sure enough, it still sits proudly by their cash register. When we walked in, their faces lit up with recognition: “I know you. From Seattle!” Hugs, smiles, and mango sticky rice followed, along with laughter when they saw themselves featured in our YouTube video.

The rest of our days were spent strolling through the city, savoring Chiang Mai’s charm, and indulging in incredible meals — including a couple of Michelin‑starred restaurants. 

But the highlight came on our second night: two and a half hours of body scrub, body wrap, massage, and a facial. This was my second facial of the trip, and I’m beginning to wonder if women have been hiding these things from men all along. You’ll never see an ad for facials during a football game, but I’m here to say they’re pretty amazing. My testosterone may not be impressed, but my skin is oooh so soft.

Tomorrow we fly to Bangkok to rejoin our original schedule. We’re excited for our second visit there and the adventures ahead. One side note: we received a text from the Vietnam postal service that the two boxes of gifts we mailed from Hanoi were refused by the U.S. government. Apparently, they’re not accepting packages from Vietnam. I guess America is great again, huh?

✨ Papa’s Travel Tips

• Don’t knock facials until you’ve tried one. They may not boost your testosterone, but they’ll make your skin feel like silk.

• Leave a little gift behind. You never know when it will greet you on your next visit — even a Seattle Police bear can become a restaurant mascot.

• Balcony mornings are priceless. Sometimes the best travel memories are made with coffee, quiet, and a sunrise.

• Google Translate is your best travel buddy. It may not be perfect, but it can turn “what’s good?” into sweet bread and laughter.

Papa's Travel Tip: Be Ready To Pivot

 One lesson we've learned over the years is that we have to be flexible in our travel plans.  Even after a year of planning things do sometimes go sideways.   As is the case with our time here in Vietnam.  

Our plans were to fly from Hanoi to Hue for a few days and then onto Da Nang for some golf.  Mother Nature had other ideas.  Torrential rains have hit central Vietnam (Hue & Da Nang) and this is following typhoons a few weeks ago.  

The result:

The Imperial City is under water.

We spent a few hours last night cancelling hotels and flights.  Then rebooking everything to head back to Chiang Mai Thailand.  We spent 2 weeks in Chiang Mai last year and Sonja had a great time.  Papa, not so much.  Chiang Mai is where he drank the water and got ill.  We're heading back so that Papa can enjoy this northern Thailand city.

We'll be there for 6 nights and fly from there to resume our original itinerary in Bangkok.

Like Woody Allen said, "If you want to make God laugh, tell him how well you've planned."

Papa, Potholes & Pho: Ninh Binh Tales

Kids, after a week in the noisy streets of Hanoi, we found ourselves in Ninh Binh — and oh, what a change it was. Our driver whisked us through the countryside, past rice fields and water buffalo, until limestone mountains suddenly rose out of nowhere. 

When we arrived at our little cottage on the lake, it felt like stepping into another world. The sunset painted the water gold, and for the first time in days, there was silence. No horns, no shouting — just peace. Your Grandma had found heaven.

The next morning, butterflies danced around us as we sipped coffee on the terrace. Breakfast was ready — steaming pho, an omelette, and strong Vietnamese drip coffee. That’s when the fun began. An Indian couple walked in, and I greeted her with “Namaste.” She laughed and replied “Good morning!” — our languages had reversed. To top it off, we discovered they were from Sammamish, Washington — practically neighbors! By the end of breakfast, we had new friends, a phone number, and even an invitation to meet her family in Chennai when we visit India.

Fueled by pho and laughter, we hopped on a Vespa. Now, calling it a “road” is generous — it was more like dodging potholes the size of bathtubs. Grandma clung to me, laughing and squealing, while I tried to keep us upright. 

Eventually, we rolled into Tam Coc, where traffic felt like “mini Hanoi.” 

We wandered Hoa Lu Old Town, ate chocolate buns, and I even got roped into a group photo with Vietnamese teenagers who thought Papa was a celebrity.

Lunch was thali at a remarkable Indian restaurant, where the owner gave us tips for our upcoming trip to India. 

And because we’re spoiled, we ended the day at a spa: sauna, steam bath, herbal soak, and a 90‑minute massage. The cost for both of us? Forty‑two dollars. Kids, I tell you — Vietnam is heaven for your wallet and your back muscles.

Jurassic Park and Giant Spiders

Sunday wasn’t as busy as the days before, but it was just as memorable. After another delicious breakfast at our homestay, we hopped back on the motorbike and rode 50 kilometers through the countryside to Cuc Phuong National Park. The entrance fee was 140,000 dong — about $5.32. 

In the U.S., you couldn't even look at a National Park sign for that amount.

The moment we entered, it felt like stepping into another world. Imagine Hawaii’s lush greenery, but bigger, bolder, and wilder. Leaves the size of cars, ferns as tall as buildings — it was like Mother Nature had turned up the volume.

The highlight was climbing nearly straight up to a cave where human artifacts over 7,000 years old had been found.

We didn’t discover any treasures, but we did meet the largest spider I’ve ever seen — bigger than my hand.  Let’s just say Papa climbed down faster than he went up.

At the bottom, we rewarded ourselves with fresh coconuts, shared with a new friend from Germany. Once again, the best part of travel isn’t just the sights — it’s the friendships you make along the way.

On the ride back, Grandma and I had our Abbott and Costello moment trying to figure out how to pump gas in Vietnam. Picture two confused tourists, a motorbike, and a gas pump that seemed to have its own personality. We laughed until our sides hurt, and eventually, with a little help, we got it done.

Our last (and best) day in Ninh Binh

Our final day in Ninh Binh began with a drizzle, just enough to remind us we weren’t in charge of the weather. We headed to Trang An for a boat ride that felt straight out of King Kong — in fact, some of the movie was filmed here. For three hours, an older Vietnamese woman rowed us through rivers and caves, sometimes using her legs to propel the oars. We ducked low to avoid cave ceilings dripping water, and then emerged into sunlight with limestone peaks towering above us. It was breathtaking.

We stopped at temples, and I even dusted off my Spanish with visitors from Barcelona. 

That was the magical part of the day. The comical part came later. We tried to mail gifts home, but the post offices were closed for lunch. We killed time with sweet bread from a tiny bakery, standing on the sidewalk as school kids rode past shouting “hello.” For fifteen minutes, we felt like zoo animals, waving back at giggling kids. A couple even stopped for selfies, their laughter contagious.

Finally, the post office reopened. For the next hour, we wrestled with Google Translate to ship two boxes. The postage came to 3,000,000 dong — about $113 — and we were short. I set off in search of an ATM, got caught in the rain, and wandered in circles until a young man pointed me to a bank just blocks away. All ended well: packages shipped, rain gone, and a wonderful dinner to close the day.

And so, kids, our four days in Ninh Binh comes to an end. We had sunsets, potholes, spiders, coconuts, laughter, and friendships from Sammamish to Barcelona to Germany. Tomorrow, we head back to Hanoi to catch a flight to Hue. The adventure continues…