Papa, Potholes & Pho: Ninh Binh Tales

Kids, after a week in the noisy streets of Hanoi, we found ourselves in Ninh Binh — and oh, what a change it was. Our driver whisked us through the countryside, past rice fields and water buffalo, until limestone mountains suddenly rose out of nowhere. 

When we arrived at our little cottage on the lake, it felt like stepping into another world. The sunset painted the water gold, and for the first time in days, there was silence. No horns, no shouting — just peace. Your Grandma had found heaven.

The next morning, butterflies danced around us as we sipped coffee on the terrace. Breakfast was ready — steaming pho, an omelette, and strong Vietnamese drip coffee. That’s when the fun began. An Indian couple walked in, and I greeted her with “Namaste.” She laughed and replied “Good morning!” — our languages had reversed. To top it off, we discovered they were from Sammamish, Washington — practically neighbors! By the end of breakfast, we had new friends, a phone number, and even an invitation to meet her family in Chennai when we visit India.

Fueled by pho and laughter, we hopped on a Vespa. Now, calling it a “road” is generous — it was more like dodging potholes the size of bathtubs. Grandma clung to me, laughing and squealing, while I tried to keep us upright. 

Eventually, we rolled into Tam Coc, where traffic felt like “mini Hanoi.” 

We wandered Hoa Lu Old Town, ate chocolate buns, and I even got roped into a group photo with Vietnamese teenagers who thought Papa was a celebrity.

Lunch was thali at a remarkable Indian restaurant, where the owner gave us tips for our upcoming trip to India. 

And because we’re spoiled, we ended the day at a spa: sauna, steam bath, herbal soak, and a 90‑minute massage. The cost for both of us? Forty‑two dollars. Kids, I tell you — Vietnam is heaven for your wallet and your back muscles.

Jurassic Park and Giant Spiders

Sunday wasn’t as busy as the days before, but it was just as memorable. After another delicious breakfast at our homestay, we hopped back on the motorbike and rode 50 kilometers through the countryside to Cuc Phuong National Park. The entrance fee was 140,000 dong — about $5.32. 

In the U.S., you couldn't even look at a National Park sign for that amount.

The moment we entered, it felt like stepping into another world. Imagine Hawaii’s lush greenery, but bigger, bolder, and wilder. Leaves the size of cars, ferns as tall as buildings — it was like Mother Nature had turned up the volume.

The highlight was climbing nearly straight up to a cave where human artifacts over 7,000 years old had been found.

We didn’t discover any treasures, but we did meet the largest spider I’ve ever seen — bigger than my hand.  Let’s just say Papa climbed down faster than he went up.

At the bottom, we rewarded ourselves with fresh coconuts, shared with a new friend from Germany. Once again, the best part of travel isn’t just the sights — it’s the friendships you make along the way.

On the ride back, Grandma and I had our Abbott and Costello moment trying to figure out how to pump gas in Vietnam. Picture two confused tourists, a motorbike, and a gas pump that seemed to have its own personality. We laughed until our sides hurt, and eventually, with a little help, we got it done.

Our last (and best) day in Ninh Binh

Our final day in Ninh Binh began with a drizzle, just enough to remind us we weren’t in charge of the weather. We headed to Trang An for a boat ride that felt straight out of King Kong — in fact, some of the movie was filmed here. For three hours, an older Vietnamese woman rowed us through rivers and caves, sometimes using her legs to propel the oars. We ducked low to avoid cave ceilings dripping water, and then emerged into sunlight with limestone peaks towering above us. It was breathtaking.

We stopped at temples, and I even dusted off my Spanish with visitors from Barcelona. 

That was the magical part of the day. The comical part came later. We tried to mail gifts home, but the post offices were closed for lunch. We killed time with sweet bread from a tiny bakery, standing on the sidewalk as school kids rode past shouting “hello.” For fifteen minutes, we felt like zoo animals, waving back at giggling kids. A couple even stopped for selfies, their laughter contagious.

Finally, the post office reopened. For the next hour, we wrestled with Google Translate to ship two boxes. The postage came to 3,000,000 dong — about $113 — and we were short. I set off in search of an ATM, got caught in the rain, and wandered in circles until a young man pointed me to a bank just blocks away. All ended well: packages shipped, rain gone, and a wonderful dinner to close the day.

And so, kids, our four days in Ninh Binh comes to an end. We had sunsets, potholes, spiders, coconuts, laughter, and friendships from Sammamish to Barcelona to Germany. Tomorrow, we head back to Hanoi to catch a flight to Hue. The adventure continues…