Hanoi: Come for the Pho, Stay for the Haircuts

From typhoon detours to Vietnamese massages and motorbike mayhem—our first 24 hours in Hanoi were anything but ordinary. Come along as we navigate immigration chaos, discover the art of the Vietnamese haircut, and settle into the rhythm of the Old Quarter. Rain or not, the adventure is just beginning.

First Impressions of Hanoi: Typhoons, Massages, and Motorbikes

After a smooth few days in Singapore, we boarded our flight to Hanoi—a 3½-hour hop that turned into a slightly longer journey thanks to a typhoon sweeping through southern Vietnam. Our pilot rerouted to avoid the worst of it, and while the skies were moody, Singapore Airlines was once again superb. The meal of prawns, vegetables, and dessert was excellent, and the service flawless.

But the real adventure began after we landed.

Immigration was a mess. We chose what looked like the shortest line, only to discover it was actually the slowest. Three lines were converging into one, and ours barely moved. I switched to a faster-moving line and caught up to Sonja within minutes. The couple behind me, from China, kindly agreed to let her join me.

Then we saw them—a young family in the slow line, struggling. Two kids under five, one asleep in the mother’s arms, the other clinging to her side. The father was pushing a mountain of luggage. It was heartbreaking. I asked the same couple if they’d mind letting the mother and children go ahead. The woman protested loudly. No amount of pleading worked.

So I did it anyway.

I gestured to the mother to join our line. She looked surprised, then grateful. The icy stares from behind were intense, but I couldn’t bring myself to care. The delay was two minutes at most. Sometimes, compassion is worth a little discomfort.

A Calm Oasis in the Old Quarter

Our hotel, the Acoustic Hotel & Spa, is a four-star retreat nestled in Hanoi’s Old Quarter. As our driver approached, the city’s chaos came rushing back—motorbikes everywhere, horns blaring, pedestrians playing real-life Frogger across the streets. It’s madness, but it’s Hanoi madness, and it’s oddly comforting.

The hotel itself is a haven. Uniformed staff greeted us at the door, and we were welcomed with a soothing cup of tea. The check-in was seamless, and the staff couldn’t have been more gracious. After quick showers, we headed to a pre-arranged appointment at the hotel’s spa.

A 90-minute Vietnamese couples massage awaited us—and it was divine. We’ve always been fans of the “departure massage,” but this was our first “arrival massage.” It’s now a permanent part of our travel playbook. Jet-lagged and weary, we melted into the experience and slept like babies that night.

Wandering Through the Mist

Our first full day in Hanoi was meant to be a recovery day, and it delivered. We drifted in and out of sleep, letting our bodies catch up. But by late afternoon, we ventured out into the misty rain for a walk through the Old Quarter.

The streets were alive with familiar chaos—smells, sounds, motorbikes, and the ever-present honking. Sonja spotted a salon tucked down an alley, and I needed a haircut. “Let’s go,” I said.

If you’ve never had a haircut in Vietnam, you’re in for a treat. A young woman greeted us and, via Google Translate, confirmed we were both welcome. She laid me down on a table for a shampoo and head massage, then led me to the barber chair where a quiet gentleman took over. 

What followed was an hour of meticulous grooming—every hair on my head and beard accounted for.

When he finished, he began working on Sonja while I was led back for another shampoo and massage. Then, a third gentleman appeared with a blow dryer and the final touches. It was a team effort, and it felt more like a spa ritual than a haircut.

Dinner with the Cool Crowd

We ended the day at the Hanoi Social Club, hoping for live music but arriving a day early. Still, the place was charming—an eclectic mix of backpackers, creatives, and digital nomads. We were easily the oldest people in the room, but the vibe was warm and relaxed.

The food was okay, nothing memorable, but the atmosphere made up for it. On the walk back to the hotel, we briefly considered another massage. But our bed won that debate, and sleep came quickly.

Looking Ahead: Rain or Shine

With the typhoon lingering nearby, the rain is expected to stick around for another two to three days. But that won’t slow us down. We’re planning to explore Hanoi’s cultural heart—starting with a walk around the iconic Hoan Kiem Lake, a visit to the historic Temple of Literature, and a solemn, respectful stop at the infamous “Hanoi Hilton,” where John McCain was once held as a prisoner of war. Each of these experiences will be shared in future posts, rain-soaked or not.

Updates coming in a few days...